Female Master Brewer Breaks Barriers in Japan’s Sake Industry
In the picturesque Nagano prefecture, Mie Takahashi meticulously checks the temperature of fermenting rice at Koten, her family’s 150-year-old sake brewery. As one of only 33 registered female toji (master brewers) in Japan’s Toji Guild Association, Takahashi represents a significant shift in an industry traditionally dominated by men.
For centuries, women were excluded from sake production, a practice deeply rooted in Shinto religious beliefs and societal norms. During the Edo period, an unspoken rule barred women from breweries, with theories ranging from perceptions of impurity to the physical demands of the work.
However, Japan’s changing demographics and evolving gender roles are gradually breaking down these barriers. The country’s aging population and increased mechanization in breweries have opened doors for women like Takahashi to enter the field. “Passion is what matters in this industry, not gender,” Takahashi asserts.
Sake brewing, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, involves fermenting steamed rice with koji mold to convert starch into sugar. Takahashi’s journey into this ancient craft began in childhood, leading her to study fermentation science and train for a decade before becoming a toji at age 34.
Now managing a team of seasonal workers during the winter peak season, Takahashi emphasizes the importance of teamwork and camaraderie in the brewing process. Her expertise comes at a crucial time for the industry, which faces declining domestic consumption and a shortage of master brewers.
To address these challenges, Koten is exploring new markets and products. Takahashi, supported by her brother Isao, experiments with innovative techniques and products like the Mie Special series. “We’re constantly looking for ways to diversify our offerings and reach new consumers,” Takahashi explains.
As Koten aims to expand its product range and international presence, the inclusion of women like Takahashi is increasingly seen as vital for the industry’s survival and innovation. Their fresh perspectives and creative approaches may well be the key to preserving and evolving Japan’s rich sake-brewing tradition for future generations.