EU Regulation Looms: Berlin’s Iconic Döner Kebab Industry Faces Potential Shake-Up
Staff Editor Berlin’s Döner Kebab Industry Faces Potential EU Regulation
In the bustling Mitte neighborhood of Berlin, the aroma of sizzling beef and chicken wafts from vertical spits at Kebap With Attitude. Cooks busily prepare ingredients while fresh vegetables await their turn to be added to the popular street food. This scene, replicated across thousands of kebab shops in Germany, represents a significant industry generating billions in sales annually.
However, the future of this beloved fast food staple may soon face a challenge. The European Commission is considering a proposal from Turkey to regulate the döner kebab name, potentially impacting the industry throughout Germany and Europe.
The word “döner” originates from the Turkish verb meaning “to rotate.” What began as lamb served on a plate evolved into the pita bread sandwich that Berliners know and love today. Now, Turkey seeks to apply for “traditional specialty guaranteed” status, which would impose specific requirements for beef and chicken preparation in döner kebabs.
Germany’s Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture has raised objections to the proposal, expressing concerns about preserving the diversity of preparation methods. Cem Özdemir, Germany’s federal food and agriculture minister, emphasized the importance of maintaining the kebab’s variety.
If implemented, the regulations could exclude vegetables, turkey, and veal kebabs from being labeled as döner, confusing the German food industry. Kebab shop owners like Buchholz are already considering creative solutions to maintain menu diversity while complying with potential new rules.
The issue has taken on political dimensions, with Germany’s Die Linke party requesting a “price break” on kebabs. German Chancellor Olaf Scholz responded to the matter, while President Frank-Walter Steinmeier engaged in “döner diplomacy” during a visit to Turkey.
Some Turkish citizens in Germany have expressed fear of reprisals for speaking out against the regulations. The German Hotel and Restaurant Association has also voiced objections to the proposed changes.
As the debate continues, the focus remains on preserving the diversity of the kebab while navigating potential economic and legal challenges posed by the proposed regulations. The outcome of this culinary controversy could have far-reaching implications for one of Germany’s most beloved street foods.
