Chablis Wine Crisis: Climate Change and Disease Devastate 2024 Harvest
Staff Editor Chablis Winemakers Face Challenging 2024 Harvest Amid Climate Woes
On a crisp late September morning in France’s renowned Chablis wine region, grape pickers labor under the weight of heavy buckets slung over their shoulders. It’s the final day of harvest at Domaine Roland Lavantureux winery, where workers are handpicking the last of the prized Chardonnay grapes. However, wine enthusiasts may find it difficult to secure bottles from the 2024 vintage due to significantly reduced quantities.
France’s wine country has endured one of the wettest years on record in 2024, with the Lavantureux estate experiencing a series of unpredictable and harsh weather events, including frost, hail, record rainfall, and a dangerous fungal outbreak.
The devastating impact of the disease has led to substantial crop losses and affected wine quality across the region. David and Arnaud Lavantureux fought a challenging battle against mildew, with expected losses reaching 60 to 65% at their estate. This trend is mirrored across France, where wet conditions have diminished overall production. The French Ministry of Agriculture estimates national production at 39.3 million hectoliters, falling below both 2023 levels and the five-year average.
Arnaud Lavantureux expressed relief as the harvest concluded, noting that the 2024 vintage will possess unique characteristics due to the year’s challenges.
Climate change is reshaping the traditionally favorable conditions in Chablis vineyards, bringing unseasonably mild weather and increased rainfall. Frost damage has become more frequent and severe, prompting winemakers to adopt creative solutions. These adaptations include delayed pruning, larger foliage, candle lighting, electric line installation, and water spraying on buds. Anti-hail devices have also been deployed, though their effectiveness is not guaranteed.
Despite the difficulties faced in 2024, two consecutive successful years in 2022 and 2023 are expected to help offset financial losses. International demand for Chablis remains strong, particularly in the United States, where exports reached 3 million bottles, generating 368 million euros.
As the challenging 2024 harvest comes to a close, Arnaud Lavantureux and fellow Chablis winemakers look ahead with cautious optimism to future vintages, armed with new strategies to combat the evolving climate landscape.
